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As far as I'm concerned, the best ice cream comes in only 2 flavors: pure vanilla and chocolate. Let's concentrate on the latter. Chocolate ice cream is made by using cocoa powder or chocolate. Cocoa powder produces a much more intense chocolate ice cream but using chocolate with its cocoa butter component will produce an ice cream with more substantial mouthfeel. Both ingredients produce wonderful ices and ice creams so I've included a recipe using each ingredient. In fact, the first ice cream recipe uses both in combination for a double hit of chocolate -- lucious and intense. The second recipe has an intense flavor, but is lighter in texture. I have also included it because the procedure doesn't require the use of an ice cream machine.

Because ice cream arrives on your tastebuds very cold, frozen in fact, the cold dilutes and hides flavors, so make sure your custard or cream has a very intense before you freeze it. This is where the best chocolate will produce a superior product. Spurge a little, you'll be happy later when you sample the result.

Chocolate Velvet Ice Cream
makes 1 1/2 quarts
By Sara Perry, The Chocolate Book

1/4 cup Dutch process cocoa powder
2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup brown sugar
4 oz. bittersweet chocolate chunks
4 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar

In a 2 quart saucepan, combine the cocoa and 1/4 cup milk and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth paste. Whisk in the remaining milk and brown sugar, stirring to dissolve. Add the chocolate and place the saucepan over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is steaming. Do not allow it to boil.

Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and sugar until they are creamy and a pale lemony color. Slowly add the chocolate mixture to the beaten eggs, return to the 2 quart saucepan and place over low heat. Cook, stirring constantly until the custard thickens and covers the back off a spoon. Do not allow it to come near a boil.

Strain the custard through a fine sieve into a glass or plastic container. Cool, cover and refrigerate overnight. Place the chilled custard mixture in your ice cream maker and follow manufacturer's instructions.

Frozen Chocolate Cream
serves 8

6 egg yolks 1 cup sugar
1 cup whole milk
10 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chunks
1 cup heavy whipping cream

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, whisk the egg yolks with 1/2 cup of the sugar until the mixture is light colored and forms ribbons when poured off the spoon. Heat the milk and the remaining sugar in another saucepan until the mixture just comes to a boil. Pour a little of the hot milk mixture into the egg and sugar mixture whisking to combine. This helps the eggs to get ready for more heat and keeps them from curdling. Then, slowly add the remaining hot milk mixture to the egg mixture whisking continuously until it is well combined.

Cook the custard over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens. Be careful not to let the custard boil as it will curdle the eggs. When the custard leaves a thick layer on the back of your spoon, it is ready. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and continue stirring for a couple of minutes until the temperature drops a little.

Add the chocolate to hot custard and continue beating the custard until it is room temperature and forms a ribbon when dropped from the spoon. This could take about 20 minutes depending on how cool your kitchen is.

Whip the cream until it holds firm but soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate custard. Ladle the finished chocolate cream into a serving container or individual serving dishes and freeze.

Pam Williams is founder and lead instructor of Ecole Chocolat Professional Chocolatier School of Chocolate Arts.