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We could probably write a book only on chocolate cookies and it would be 2 inches thick. Chocolate and cookies just seem to go together. Some tips to remember when you are making cookies and bars with chocolate: you can use less expensive chocolate because the extra conching that produces great chocolate is hidden in the crunchiness of the final product. I would never suggest you use an inferior chocolate in any recipe, but if you must, then here is the place to do it. Also, please watch your cooking time carefully. Burned chocolate has a very chalky taste, so be very careful, especially if you are using milk or white chocolate. You can substitute milk or white chocolate for the semi-sweet chocolate specified in most cookie or bar recipes but you will get a much sweeter product, so do some experimentation with the amount of sugar called for in the recipe.

The following are two recipes that are what I consider the classic recipe for each category. A chocolate chip cookie recipe given to me by a friend many years ago and supposedly based on the famous Mrs. Fields cookie recipe. It is my favorite because it has the chewy texture and calls for lots of pecans. The chocolate brownie recipe is from Julia Child and consistently remains the richest and deepest flavored brownie recipe I have come across. It calls for a jelly roll sized pan that produces a 1/2 inch brownie. If you want a thicker bar, use a smaller pan, but remember that the cooking time will be longer.

Supposedly Mrs. Fields Chocolate Chip Recipe

1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp. real vanilla
2 1/2 cups oatmeal
2 cups All purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
3/4 lb. Semi-sweet chocolate chopped into chunks
1 1/2 cups toasted pecans or any nut of your choice

In a large mixing bowl, cream together the butter, sugar and brown sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time,then the vanilla and beat until well combined.

Put the oatmeal into the blender in small batches and blend until almost the consistency of flour. Combine it in a separate bowl with the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda. When well mixed, add it to the butter, sugar and egg mixture.

Add the chocolate chunks and the pecans to the above combination of dry and wet ingredients. Mix only until well combined.

Drop cookie dough by spoonfuls onto a cookie sheet leaving about 1 1/2 inches between cookies. Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 9 minutes depending on the size of your spoonful. Check first batch about every 3 minutes until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.

Kate's Great Chocolate Fudge Cake
For a jelly roll pan about 11x17 inches
created by Julia Child, Julia Child and More Company
Note: This recipe was developed by Julia's chef Marian's daughter, Kate Morash, when she was only twelve years old, and makes a most superior brownie.

Butter and flour for baking pan 4 oz. unsalted butter
4 oz. unsweetened chocolate
4 oz. unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
2 cups sugar
3 large eggs
1 tsp. Pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup all purpose flour

Equipment: a jelly roll pan and wax paper; a saucepan for melting chocolate and butter, and another saucepan in which to set the first; and electric mixer; a flour sifter and a cake rack.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter the jelly roll pan (so the paper will stick to it), cut a sheet of wax paper to fit it with 2 inches of overhang at each end, and press into pan. Butter and flour the paper, knocking out excess flour. Measure out all your ingredients.

Set the first 4 oz. of butter and the chocolate in the melting pan, and place in the other pan with 2 to 3 inches of water; bring near to simmering and let the chocolate and butter melt together while you continue with the next step.

Cream second 4 oz. of butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. Beat the eggs one by one, and the vanilla and salt. Stir in the warm melted chocolate mixture, then gradually sift and fold in the flour. Spread the batter evenly into the pan, and bake at once in the middle level of preheated oven, setting timer for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Then turn pan upside down over a cake rack and unmold the cake, gently pulling off the wax paper. Cool 10 minutes more. When cool, cut into 3x1.5 inch rectangles.

Pam Williams is founder and lead instructor of Ecole Chocolat Professional Chocolatier School of Chocolate Arts.